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Also, I almost forgot, depending on the load your ampliar puts on the high-level outputs on the b&o, you are going to have problems with chime routing. More than likely, your IPC will route the chimes through the dash speaker. So if you have side collision alert of back up sensors, they won’t...

Here’s the wiring diagram to see for yourself: https://www.f150forum.com/attachments/f118/542202d1515890636-2018-stereo-wiring-diagram-b-o-3-12.pdf https://www.f150forum.com/attachments/f118/542203d1515890636-2018-stereo-wiring-diagram-b-o-4-12.pdf

The problem is, unlike the older Sony amp, the b&o amp does not handle the tweeter channels. So if you only tap into the high level output of b&o amp, you won’t have any frequencies above about 1000hz which is a problem. Above 1000hz is all speaking, voices, and any high pitch sounds. Most...

If you can afford it, get rid of the b&o amp which will eliminate factory eq roll off and replace it with a NavTV ZEN a2b. Then you don’t have to worry about high level inputs. The new version of zen a2b has a built in 12 channel dsp.

Removed the B&O amp and replaced the entire system with the following: NavTV Zen a2b replacement interface Helix dsp pro mk2 AudioControl 6.1200 AudioControl 4.800 AudioControl 1.1500 Front tweeters- Morel mt120’s Front mids- Morel cdm600’s Front woofers- Morel TIW 634 ft titanium’s Rear doors-...

I have part numbers for the rest of the harness as I have replaced the entire b&o amp and don’t need that plug. As far as the green sub plug, email [email protected] with a couple pictures of the green plug and tell them you want the mating plug. They will respond pretty...

Yup. The factory sub and sub channel wiring is easily accessible from behind the drivers side rear seat. The plug is green. You can order the mating Molex plug for the b&o sub plug from DigiKey. This allows the entire system to be plug and play with no splicing of the factory harness. It also...

Yes, it has the same roll off.

Your could be clipping. How did you set your gains?

How often does a dealer throw their hands up and say “not our problem”? All the time. Once you spell the situation out to them with a suspected solution, their attitude generally changes.

If the forward collision sensor was misaligned from the factory, the extra weight may throw it out of tolerance. It’s happens. It needs to be readjusted. Not all trucks need it, my truck is leveled and I have no problems but the level didn’t throw the sensor out of tolerance because it was...

I could understand the the forward collision sensor issue when the rear end squats due to the tools. It’s not really blocked but instead aimed upward or straight ahead since the truck is more level or even nose high when loaded down. That can be adjusted with a little bit of time and effort...

Couple more from the past weeks progress.

Got a couple more sneak peaks for you guys. One word, acrylic...

Here’s the app I use for white noise and all tuning tones. In fact, this app was recommended to my by the engineers at Rockford. Audio Function Generator PRO by Thomas Gruberhttps://itunes.apple.com/us/app/audio-function-generator-pro/id895074703?mt=8 Do you have an rta yet? You don’t need to...

When you say, “one pair at a time” do you mean that you are tuning both a left and right speaker simultaneously? Because you really should tuning each individual speaker separately considering each side of the truck is different.

I imagine there would be a clamp of some kind under the bedside fender panel that connects the fuel tank filler hose to the fuel cap opening.

How is your time alignment measured? Are you setting your listening position for the drivers seat or for the center of the truck?

Damn man. I’m sorry you are having trouble. Time alignment is a huge part of having a dsp. That doesn’t make sense to me.

Made some progress on the final version of the amp rack. Spans the entire back wall. 1/4” abs. Lots and lots of test fitting. Bent at a 160 degree angle to match flush with factory trim. I’ll be wrapping it in black leather to match the truck once I mock up/ drill and tap the mounting holes for...

Got my breaker panel finished and mounted yesterday. It’s made out of 1/4” abs and bolts to the factory batter tray mounting bolt. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That module is the voltage regulator for the charging system. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok that is correct! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk ---------- Post added at 01:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:13 PM ---------- So when they had the NavTV unit wired to the factory harness. Did they disconnect the dsp to see if the alt whine went away? Sent from my iPhone...

The proper procedure would be to daisy chain. Start with the NavTV remote wire to the dsp, the dsp has both input and output remotes. From the dsp, you go the amps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good deal. Then yeah, you need to trace the power and ground to both the dsp and NavTV. Power the navtv like it states in the instruction manual and also power the dsp off that same power source. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk