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Bora wheels spacers is the only thing I would consider.

I adjusted mine with channel locks. It’s been a while but I think you just gotta remove the skid plate. The nut itself isn’t very tight.

There is a nut on the steering rack to adjust backlash I believe. If you over tighten it the steering will get hard to turn. Wonder if it’s been over tightened.

I would get a different tune for sure. Do you have the stage 1 or HO system?

Make sure the coils are not hitting the shock look for wear marks or scratches. I know on gen 1 if you do not place the 2 wedges on the upper mount correctly they will hit the shock.

I have a set of OEM 13-14 HID headlights. Was going to use them on my 2010 but noticed they were painted blue instead of the original dark grey. They looked to be JB welded back together. They are missing a few parts 1 wire from bulb to ballast, screws for ballasts, and the bulb retainer and...

You said you wanted reliability so my vote goes for the gen 1.

Some email tuning is not "best guess tuning" there’s a few companies that specialize on certain vehicles that have tuned multiple vehicles with mostly same mods. With this they give you a base tune and you start data logging and creates a much better tune even if you get a dyno tune.

Look into traction bars or KHC torque arm. Definitely need one or the other to put the power down. This will extend your driveshaft life for sure. Wheel hop is what will break your driveshaft.

F-350 tows as much as a semi?

Yeah just like all the long wheelbase trophy trucks racing around.

My gen 1 throw the code sometimes too. I guess it has to do with the truck detecting higher engine torque from the mods. Wrench will come on but truck is not in limp mode.

Haven’t received mine either. Did you guys purchase them from BD or a BD dealer?

That’s usually what they run. Bought a set from 4wheel parts for same price. Tax is what you would save.

Don’t think he mentioned Raptor just a 2015!F-150.

After looking at both I’m leaning over to the Roush kit. You can get the kit from JDM with their tuner and not have to send your pcm. Their tune is a lot better than the Roush calibration too. Another thing to take into consideration on the Whipple you would have to remove the upper part of the...

It’s in the post Wheel Specs: Velgen VFT9 Wheel Size: 20”x10” Wheel Finish: Brushed Tinted Clear Tires: Nitto Trail Grapplers Tire Size: 35x12.50R20

If it were me I’d do front and rear bump stops!

Shocks rebuilt?

It is posted in the classifieds: https://www.fordraptorforum.com/threads/rigid-industries-40”-midnight-edition-rds-w-mounting-brackets.72887/

More like ultimate street queen. Just teasing ya imo 20s don’t belong off the pavement.

My 2010 call for 600-928 newer models call for the part number you installed.

I have a Dorman motor on mine. This is the second Dorman motor first one was replaced after it also went out only after about a month of being installed. So that could be a possibility. I would try to swap it

I bet your replacement tcase shifter motor is weak. Where did you get the replacement?

With a name like that I would’ve steered far far away from them.