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Going straight letting go the wheel just means toe settings are matched left and right, like +1/16 on both sides for +1/8 total toe... What is the toe on each side? +/- as well

I have the same springs on the low perch

alignment data sheet from your last alignment plz

what is your front end set at, in particular toe... if your total toe is too positive then that might be the problem... generally I like to be just on the positive side of zero... if I knock my alignment out then it either is slightly less positive or a little more positive...

have not watched video...

given it was worse after replacing the rack, my vote loose set screw/bolt where steering shaft connects to the rack's input shaft...

how much play in the steering wheel, i.e. how far does it clock left and right without any movement in the front end. If there is a bunch of play without any rack movement then the problem is either a bad/loose universal joint on the steering shaft or too much lash in the rack... the later can...

From a hardware perspective, talking long block, having spent some time going through the shop manual and Ford OEM parts pages the only significant difference is the camshafts. There may be a couple other differences as well, from a front dress perspective, i don't know... the cams can still be...

I'll take a look and see if I can separate the driver's side cat from the y-pipe...

i have all of it... unfortunately i'm in SC...

The Trail Grappler is in between the Mud Grappler and the Ridge Grappler... happy wife, happy life!

i would recommend trail or ridge grapplers, i currently am running mud grapplers, which i would only recommend if you can deal with ALOT of road noise, especially highway... the trail grapplers are nearly as aggressive looking but are much quieter, Nitto says like 33% quieter, relative to the...

it involves what i would call minor drilling, 1/2 the bolts use existing holes in the frame and brackets, installed on my 2011

Deavers/Icons improved axle wrap but did not eliminate it, you also need the traction bars imho...

anything done to the truck recently, i.e. work/maintenance/upgrades, before this issue manifested...

This, common 03-04 Cobra issue, too much gap, hence only under boost... I'm sure there is some supercharged Raptor tribal knowledge... but if you are running the factory gap on your plugs in a supercharged application... likely the problem... you want the most gap you can get away with without...

yes?

and it would not make a difference performance wise with a 379 cui motor with a 3" pipe connected to each side of the motor... nor could anyone see it if run properly... everything on the drivers side of the truck has a longer run, because it all has to run down the passenger's side between the...

V8s should have dual exhaust, IMHO, for whatever that's worth...

Got it, but the fella asked about exiting at the dove tail, and it's doable with a single 3" pipe per side, even with deavers/icons, rear frame brace, and traction bars... Just take some fab work is all, and it will look cool...

With the neg battery wire disconnected, if you have a jumper wire, you can short the connected positive terminal to the DISCONNECTED neg battery cable, this causes the capacitors that keep KAM alive to discharge... Then it only takes 3-5 minutes to reset KAM... If you do this without...

One example... https://www.morepowertuning.com/how-to-idle-relearn

I would do 30, again, if you have a handheld tuner, it may be to do a KAM Reset, which forces all the learned stuff to dump... But yes, disconnect the battery and wait, disconnect and do something else for a while... If you Google throttle relearn you'll find a few videos, you let it idle for a...

Used anything prices are crazy right now, when I kbb my 2011 it comes up stupid... 88k miles... $35-38 at Good... Glad it's paid for... Keeps me from being tempted to trade for 2022 super raptor or whatever it's called... Lol