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The crankcase vent systems on new vehicles is so much better than what you are used to on the 90s and 00s vehicles. I'd take it off and sell it on Ebay.

I've used that before. 3M MarHyde too. You must have never lived in the rust belt.

It's their halo truck in the F150 lineup. It's literally the most important vehicle for Ford image-wise. If you point out how rusty their halo is, they will at times do something about it.

Rustoleum Pro enamel. Flat black. For all of your "I need it to be black instead of rust" instances. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZFKX8B/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

Not quite, that stall happened as you slowed to a stop in neutral- the engine RPMs would drop so low that it would die. They fixed that with a new EEC strategy that went out with the 2nbd run cars, which mine had. The incident with mine had happened after I had been idling for 30 seconds at...

Ores bro- talking about the ore. Humans mine ore. The ore has miniscule amounts of metal in it. They aren't digging out a huge cobalt vein with their fingers.

Sounds like a Malaysian palm oil plantation. Lithium, and nickle ores are not toxic- they are mining rock with on 1-2% of the metal in it. Processing of ores is where the toxic stuff comes in. Mercury, cyanide, acids, solvents...

Location: California. Yup, that checks out. Balkanization here we come!

You can never engage 4WD but still have IWE issues, so "disegagement" is not a requirement for failure. If the vac signal fails to the IWE, a truck in 2WD will have it's IWEs begin to engage and they will destroy themselves.

We'll see. The vacuum system failing is what destroys the IWE as it only half-way engages and grinds itself to death- so magnets might be the solution.

Your 8 trucks doesn't mean it's not a failure prone system compared to prior Ford systems, and systems from other manufacturers. All "common problems" are that not common. If 95% are OK, statisically you could buy 19 trucks and never have an issue.

Does anyone know exactly what they changed on the IWEs? There aren't many common failure points that have carried through 4 generations of F150s. They've stuck with this IWE design since 2004, so you'd think it'd behoove Ford to make it known when they've improved it- since it's has a pretty...

The first 2 of the 3 I had done were constant noise makers. The third bearing had a noise that came and went, so they didn't get it at first. I had to take it back. It made noise mostly in right turns, but not always. Can't belive the 4th one never crapped out.

Ford had to replace 3 out of 4 wheel bearings on my SHO with less than 40K miles on it, so...

You think it's a fantasy or a dream that Ford will build thousands of V8 powered Raptors in 2024?

Been there!

If you drive at a speed that keeps it out of boost, you'd find your missing 3 MPG on the highway and maybe a couple more.

Depends on the state. All states have laws governing disclosure at a certain limit. They don't have to disclose every scratch buffed out, but there is a limit.

NGK Irridium. Heat range 7. That is indeed what you want. I run NGK Irridium plugs in every gasoline engine I own. Edit: You can probably get away with a 0.035 gap IMO. I run that in my S/C V8s without issue.

Lack of engine braking on long, slow downhills is a complaint all Raptors owners have had for a while now. Tow/haul kind of works, but not really. Downhill mode, nope. Ford went backward on engine braking with the change to the smaller engine too. The 3.5L engine has less inherent engine...

What do you charge per hr for labor? $125? If you are offering new cam phaser installation services for $400 in parts + $1250 for labor I think you would have a lot of out-of-warranty Raptor owners taking you up on that. It's been in the $3500 to $4000 range for people paying out of...

If yours was repaired already and failed again it's always blamed on poor work by the repair tech.

You can at least pull the throttle body off that side w/o major issues. Not sure if that'll get you all 4 coils on that side, but I'd bet it will. These engines have coil on plug up top, then a second plug on the side like an old school V8 that is fed with a wire from each coil up top.

There is usually a thin metal gasket under the blower that can be re-used. You might want to pick up a new gasket for the throttle body if that has to be separated from the elbow. If the IC is bolted to the blower, heat those bolts up really well if you plan to separate them to clean the IC...

Pull the blower. It's not that hard to do. Dealing with the electrical and vacuum harnesses is the toughest part, aside from the sheer weight of it. An engine hoist isn't the worst idea to help get it out of there if you don't have a couple big hosses around. Pulling it will make working...