Still researching but getting codes:
B1086 - Faulty Air Distribution Damper Motor - Circuit short to ground
B11E7 - Faulty Air Distribution Damper Motor - Circuit short to battery or ground
Oh wow, I've been using torque pro but I think this only covers engine management diagnostics where as the forscan, but I gather, can read all vehicle modules. Interesting. I need this
Looks like older model was accessed from holding off + defrost or floor button then auto button. Didn't seem to work on mine. Also only have power button no off button so probably not right.
Mind explaining what the self test is? Can't find anything on it. I did find the test mode which I had no idea about, very cool, but seems to be just gauge info.
So thats the actual button control unit, I'm just guessing but wouldn't there be other indicators that it has failed? Everything else works. I guess it could be the button because it has no response. All other buttons respond.
Thanks! So a couple question if you don't mind.
1) I did replace the actuator previously, and pretty sure I did the fuse removal reset correctly and didn't make a difference. By chance if you didn't do the procedure correctly, would it just be a matter of doing again a 2nd time or is there...
Just wanted to show how clean it is under hear. Definitely not a wear and tear problem, just regular electronic cycling wear. Having really use this as intended.
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Kind of late but checked a few things. With actuator out it will just rotate clockwise, then rotate a little more from selecting like panel or floor. Just keeps moving into the defrost position. Also checked voltage and getting 4.9 from 2 of the terminals. Not really sure how to interpret...
Correct, it is the motorcraft part. I didn't actually try it plugged in with it removed. I wasn't sure if that's screws up anything like the position. Could try.
Awesome right up. Thanks man.
This does support my theory that my problem is the #8 mode selector actuator, which makes sense now since I pull that #8 out thats located near the pedal and you can actuate the door so you can hear a "flap" sound, if that helps. Can't see that being temp related...
Not good. Was hoping that wasn't the case. How did you know for sure, out of curiousity? Would suck to go through everything and find out thats not the problem.
I did replace the one by the pedal and didn't make a difference, unless the actuator is defective. It's not clicking and the door does move by hand.
There's 2 lower ones though. I have a feeling thats the one. I wish there was a picture indicating the location of each and what each one does.
So mine is also stuck in defrost mode and won't change. I did change the one beside the accelerator pedal with no change, so I changed the wrong actuator? The one that controls the modes is the one behind the console torwards the center?
Hm, that's what I'm looking for then. You're thinking the new actuator might have a problem? It's real easy getting to and I did buy a 2nd I never thought to try. All 3 installed and clip/connector is fine. Took it out a few times and checked it and everything looked fine. Also could manually...
Panel/vent. Auto works. Actually its locked into defrost only. 2012
Do I have this right, so bottom left is floor/vent/defrost and circled is driver temp? I replaced the bottom left and didn't change anything. It does a sweep and then stops.
Sorry for the thread hijack.
Did my glovebox blendor also, fixed the temps. Then a little while after controls locked into panel only. Changed lower driverside/pedal blendor but didn't do anything. Anybody have any suggestions? Have a feeling the actual heater module might be going. Can here a slight buzzing sound in the...
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