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I always do for gen1's but they always look back like "whats your problem".

Little late but I went to tyro coatings in calgary. Yep, chemical stripper first and just peels off. Coaters mention they still need beadblasting to get a course surface.

I know there's a bunch of f150 threads on this already but had mine brought in for vibration at hwy speed braking hard and looks like rear ebrake actuator was seized and caused rotor warping and vibration. Not sure how it would effect front rotors. Was fine till I brought it in to the dealer...

Has the gen1 ever been tested as for some kind measurement for how much the road gets absorbed? Also comparably against the gen2 and competition. Was always curious how it compares. Not seat of the pants but measured.

Yes I've had this happen. Highways speed trying to pass someone and the a quick deceleration. Gets confused and doesn't k ot what gear to go in so it selects 1st, but only for a split second.

2 others recalls following. They're really holding onto that recall king title.

How is this issued recall so late after alot of people have had it replaced already? Atleast from what I read on here.

Old hammer and chisel technology.

Bam

Specifically says do not use impact to tighten or loosen.

Have a question on dealership damage. So this lock set is a factory ford part, aren't they liable for damages? They can probably pass it off still to whoever torque them down previouis, which was another ford dealer.

I need replacement wheel locks, has anyone found any? Didn't think it would be this hard.

Option 2 is welding a nut on the end and filling in a bit of the opening. Isolating the stud and wheel from heat. Option 3 is just chipping away at it till there's nothing left. Too bad there isn't a small version of a air hammer with sharp chisel.

Plus a $**t ton of penetrating oil. There's about 1/2" of meat left at the bottom base that hopefully the socket can get a hold of.

I'm thinking either that or using the kit socket and one of those adjustable T style breaker bars to get a center torsion so the socket doesn't twist off torward where the opening is.

Might pose to be a challenge actually. Dealer sent a pic of it half split so the sockets won't have much to grab.

Never mind. Very common. 23 bucks https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/4-pc-locking-wheel-nut-remover-set/A-p8320954e

Anybody have this happen? Sounds like dealership over torque and other place I took it too broke the key part off.

First one failed for me. Passenger side temp control. I assume beside the nav which will help replacing.

Isolated to the inlet. Whats also weird is that the outlet down a little farther was wet. Also the cooler oil was sludgy where as the fluid in the trans pan was clean red on the dipstick.

Just realized thats the trans oil cooler. Assumed it was coolant causing the steam. So that means have to go down and check level to maker sure its still ok.

Found it. Everything was damp from driving but dried up this morning. Just not sure if its the rad or hose. Sort of remember someone on here having to replace that front one. Any ideas? Could pressure up a small amount and check for leaks.

Anyone get a bit of steam every once in awhile? It's winter here and noticed a few times. Can' t really see anything. Looks like the small front rad could be a bit damp. Don't want to have a blow out.

Not an issue on mine. *knock on wood* Brothers fx4 had one blow out.

Had mine line-x'd for ~200. They cheaped out and didn't coat the under side thats why they lift.