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Do you plan on driving your truck 500k miles? Seems like a lot to work & waste of $$$, recommended tranny fluid swap is 100k, i think that’s too long, drive it real hard 40-50k intervals, personally i had dealer swap it around 65-70k miles They charged me $194.25 all in w/ labor & fluids…that...

Yeah, both the red & white light doesn’t work on the passenger side but everything functions normal on drivers side. I’ll double check those connections- I agree does seem unlikely the light itself would go “bad” that quickly unless something drastic happened, I’ve used rigid lights before &...

Had your rear kit installed recently w/ the rigid slr narrow spreader lights w/ the red chase halo function, both working good for a couple months & all of a sudden passengers side doesn’t work. Checked all the connections, typically rigid products are very rugged & seems odd the light itself...

Its gotta be for non-live valve then?

Are you keeping the original springs? Doing any other suspension work like ball joints/A-arms or sway bar end links? My ‘20 has 73k miles & suspension finally starting to show it- w/ family/dogs in truck & twin waverunner trailer Hooked up Im a little nose high depending if anything in the bed...

My drivers side rear shock started w/ the buzzing sound initial startup as soon as I’d put it into gear, but then after driving down the road a bit & getting some speed/bumps going it would go away, & not return until the truck sat for a bit like overnight or a couple hours. Now it stopped doing...

Where are you located? That seems like a solid deal…

Oh I get what you’re saying, def sounds like they screwed around for sure

Once the RAM RHO hits lots & Immediately gets discounted the pricing on “regular” gen 3 raptors will plummet, honestly wouldn’t be surprised if ford actually dropped MSRP significantly to match

Went outta my way to score a ‘20 W/O the roof after having 2018 w/ it- don’t need the added weight, maintenance to clean, remembering to pop it every time before opening fully, they WILL leak or have issues if you don’t routinely clean & live & make sure drain tubes are connected & clear. Not...

Went outta my way to score a ‘20 W/O the roof after having 2018 w/ it- don’t need the added weight, maintenance to clean, remembering to pop it every time before opening fully, they WILL leak or have issues if you don’t routinely clean & live & make sure drain tubes are connected & clear. Not...

lol- you paid someone to “build up” Your 3.5HO Raptor engine? Well…you’re already a mark to start bahahahhahahaha. Downpipes, intercooler, **** injection, 93 octane tune. That’s all that’s needed or even worth doing. After that?? Buy an R or do an engine swap bud, otherwise you’re just gonna get...

Swaybar endlinks maybe? Def IWE check valve

Yeah- for me owning a paid-for 69k mile 2020 Raptor, as I approach 95k miles or so depending what happens between now & then if this RHO has same or better MPG as my current Raptor & these hurricane engines look like they’re holding up (& they really should- they put all their eggs in that...

Civic (R or si) or integra (a spec or R) or BRZ or WRX or GTi or A4 or 2/3/4 series or CT4 caddy or Kia stinger etc…I could go on

Confused again here thought on my ‘20 doing the geiser 2.5” springs & deaver +3HDs would be the way to go to gain a little height while maintaining the rake then this pic throws me off b/c you’re running the 3” geisers w/ +3HDs & it looks like you still have some rake back to front.

I’m considering getting an integra A-spec w/ the manual trans as another vehicle, my Raptor has 69k miles & is paid off been putting too much miles on it (hwy mainly) & my weekly commute just burns fuel for no reason. Only thing is I already have a “toy” car in a built C5Z & my wife is closer to...

My truck has 69k miles now…original shocks, they do seem to still perform just fine & ride is comfortable & I have test driven new gen3’s not too long ago so I have same frame of reference & haven’t “forgotten” what these raptors should ride like And for the price? Im definitely NOT rebuilding...

If they’re really nasty w/ tar specks etc I’ll spray w/ wheel cleaner & use a low grit scouring pad first but usually just Amsoil HDMP soaked on a rag to clean em & keep em looking dark, lasts a while too

Yeah so keep it & in 5-10 years send it across mecum & you’ll get a nice chunk of change. The 90s/2000s stuff already going up in value

Excellent stable for sure…

I can report the power stop Z36 truck/tow brake kit does perform great on the Raptor, the ceramic pads that come w/ them have good bite & low dust, the slotted/drilled rotors seem top notch w/ some kinda corrosion resistance treatment to them & silver painted/clear coated hats Paid under $500...

Dude- just buy new ones then sell your take-offs to recoup some cost

Stealth ppf over existing ppf

Keeps the engine clean as a whistle too, I have dual nozzle **** injection in my vette (into the aluminum intake tube before a bit ahead of the TB) I removed the intake manifold a lil while ago & everything was spotless inside, almost no carbon deposits - insane lol I use straight VP M1 ****...