I've run the TSW bravo tune, and unknown shock tune and a "flutter stack" on my front shocks and honestly couldn't tell the difference between any of them. Are you running OEM springs on low perch? That would probably help more than valving. The problem with me changing valving is there are...
Contact me if you ever need a new one. I'm making my own version of their brake light and cutting my own gaskets. I can easily cut a gasket for the GJ one as well
If you have an idea of what shims i can put whatever you want in there. I don’t know much about tuning except thinner is softer so i would just be guessing
you can find the led's on amazon LEDs. they are the 6mm ones. As for the gaskets i doubt you can get them but if you are in a jam, i can measure mine and cut a new gasket. I also ran a bead of RTV around the top and sides of my light just in case.
Thanks. I was able to get a hold of king and they said 124cc. The back up plan was to measure what came out but you just never know how much has leaked out I’ve done lots of shocks that have had very little fluid left in them so I’m always skeptical of measuring that way
There is a matching shim inside the bucket above the top hat. That could be missing or installed wrong but you probably can't see it unless you drop the shock out of the bucket
Should look like this
Rebuilding my King bumps and just curious what oil volume to add. Also, since its basically an emulsion shock, do you do anything special when adding the oil and nitrogen? I was thinking of adding the oil, then open the schrader valve and compress the shock to expel all the air and then fill...
My reason is that my OEM ones have a stripped stud so it makes removing and installing a real pain when i rebuild my shocks. My goal was to get a UCA with a nut and bolt at the upper joint and a bushing at the frame mount to maintain decent ride quality on the road. I'd suspect having a hard...
Yep. That’s what i have to do when i rebuild. I’d try without the pipe though. You with mar up the perch but eventually it should break loose. You need all the shock loading you can get and you’ll lose a lot hitting the pipe
good luck. i also have a 20 ton press and the only way i've been able to get them to move is a 5lb sledge. beats the crap out of the perch but its the bottom side so its not like you can see it. Also, remove the decal/wrap above the perch as it won't slide over it easily.
Thats pretty common with doing the perch mod. That retaining ring is raw steel and it just corrodes the crap out of the perch and the shock body. Best thing to do is take it off, remove the spring and pour some white vinegar in there and let it set. The vinegar will eat the rust and you can...
PM me and we can talk. My price is $650 for a set of 4 which is quite a bit cheaper than buying new or any other exchange companies. I also don't nit pick on core returns. As long as your shafts are good and your top cap bleed screws aren't stuck you'll get your deposit back. You do have to...
I had similar experiences as others with it not working and throwing my truck into limp mode. I was getting a throttle position error or something like that. Scanner cleared it a few times and then it finally crapped out and would keep tripping the code. I unplugged it and was fine. I've...
Its likely the heating element. You can find them pretty cheap on ebay. I would buy a new one and plug it in and see if it heats up. If so then you can pull the seat covers and replace them.
The stock LCA bolts go through slotted holes in the frame, so the only thing holding your alignment is the torque of the bolts. It also makes it very difficult to adjust alignment since you have to loosen the bolts, push the LCA and then tighten without anything moving. The caster/camber kit...
I do the same thing here in Washington state. I'm surprised you found shipping for $27, i looked into it and after finding a box, packing materials and actual shipping cost it would be cheaper to send them to TSW or Hammer. I'm happy to share my experience with you as well. Rebuilding the...
Custom made bed supports for ALL Raptors. Comes with all stainless steel mounting hardware and uses existing bed bolt and existing holes in bedsides. No drilling required. An extra hole is provided if you want to drill an additional hole in the bed but it is not required.
$250.00 Local pick...
sometimes with the RPG valves you have to put an extra oring at the bottom to get them to seal. I also put a little RTV around the top or on the non threaded parts to ensure a good seal.
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