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I don't think so...three buttons, three transmitters.You may just have to carry the fob/transmitter for the one you use the least. Or, I'm pretty sure you can program one of your remotes to open two of your doors and then use that code for your 3rd Homelink button.

I would (a) follow the break-in procedures for at least a while, and (b) let the dealer check it before you do any other mods.

Are y'all out of the brake line kits? Would not want to do pads and rotors and not address lines. TIA!

I just routed mine into the back corners...small gap there, and enough to drain the water that comes out of the drain tubes. But, your install/workaround is very clean. :waytogo:

What is it supposed to address/improve?

I have pictures, but I will spare you.

The people who brought you Pearl Harbor really do try to copy what works. The 1794 was a decent KR ripoff, but the change in the KR at that time from the full KR leather to just the patches kinda pissed me off. Some of the 1794's leather packages could look a bit too orangey...fortunately mine...

I had a 1794 Tundra before my Raptor, and it was a great truck. I give Toyota credit for not trying to game the mileage ratings like many companies do...they just tell you up front it's going to suck, not massage 48mph "highway" numbers that you'll never replicate. I get roughly the same mileage...

Generally, a soft-dome tweeter is a little more smooth/less harsh. Given the direct-firing placement in our trucks, I'd lean that way, unless you like a really bright/strong tweeter sound.

You seriously just equated overzealous speed enforcement to murder of policemen. You, sir, are a fucking moron, and have made it abundantly clear in this exchange that you are neither worthy nor capable of reasoned discourse. I am an attorney and have run into far more good cops than bad. Even...

Yep, and some are bigger than others. You know what they say about holes?

The speakers are the weak link in the system, for sure...cheap paper FoMoCo crap. B&O did the amp and dsp/tuning, and possibly the sub (it's different than the Sony in '17). Read through this thread...there are some issues you want to be aware of and/or avoid, such as issues with the impedance...

Going in September...looking forward to it.

I rode back 80 miles from the beach, nice and easy, cruise at 74, full tank of 93, A/C on low...17.5 was best I could do/best I have ever gotten. How in the hell are some of you getting these numbers?

I know they donated some directly in Maryland years ago, and most ins cos give to those other groups to fund indirectly. I'm pretty sure GEICO also helped fund the development of the first traffic LIDAR gun.

I will tell you as an attorney that they are one of the worst to deal with regarding injury claims, at least in my state. They also actively used to "donate" lidar/radar guns to police departments, so they are even less your friend than most other insurance companies.

They're the same as ours, only brown. I wouldn't want any of the new KRs...only the old ones that actually had full KR leather.

Bought the BakFlip MX-4 a while back for my '18 SCREW, and have been very pleased. The amount of time you will likely spend with it all the way open/the back window obscured is negligible, and it's hard to beat in just about every other criteria for the money.

This is a pretty well-documented problem, but it's actually getting worse. There is some quirk with Sync and the larger iPods, like the Classic. Sync is continually indexing the device, and you cannot perform any meaningful search while this is going on, either through the head unit or via...

Don't you have to re-capture the accelerated depreciation from year one if you dispose of the vehicle early under Section 179? On topic, the only reason I'd go for a 2019 is the new suspension, but I'd want to drive one first.

How do you like the ride of the RTs vs. stock KO2s, or other you may have tried? I am thinking about going with Fuel Anza or Trophy and the RTs for my black 18 SCREW, maybe 18". TIA

No, and the warnings at startup warn about this when the trailer light tester is plugged in. The backup camera still comes on/works fine, though.

Secret video obtained of Guy out cruising: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLdyuwqik4Q

No. You can still shift into it and back out. All the other modes seem to work as before. ---------- Post added at 09:27 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:23 AM ---------- For me, and I think most folks, because it's too aggressive/annoying in day-to-day driving. It's done as a way to...

Somehow I picture Tony Soprano blaring Dean Martin/Sinatra off the back of the Stugots at his neighbor... :biggrin: