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They can program that in along with some more fake V8 sounds! LOL!

We waited about 10 minutes to fire it up after we flipped it over, thinking the same thing. We checked the engine oil level to make sure it was in the pan, and it read full. Started right up. Some tranny fluid came out while it was flipped, but that was it...well, besides the crushed roof...

The yellow one was a 10,000lb tow strap—not a kinetic strap. Flipping the Jeep was easy. Actually didn’t use that strap in the photo. Used a recovery strap w loop ends, but that tow strap would have been fine on that little Jeep.

Yeah, between 30-40 when it got loose and over she went.

Scary moment watching it flip over right in front of me at about 40 mph. He’s ok. Pulled it back over with a bumper strap. Jeep drove out but not ok at all.

Picked up a lightly used blower and manifold. Piecing the rest together. Just repainted the blower and manifold so far. More to come.

At least every 40k.

30 more seconds

That's a lot of truck for the money! This package was $45k on top of a new Raptor. https://www.barrett-jackson.com/Events/Event/Details/2013-FORD-F-150-SVT-RAPTOR-PICKUP-234100

I guess I misread your question. When you said "last" I thought you meant you wanted to wire your lightbar to the "last" or 4th switch. It looks like you're missing the Purple wire with the Green Tracer. That would be for switch number 3. It's probably tucked back in there.

Pretty sure that brown wire on the far right (next to the green and green with brown) is the 4th aux switch. Are you sure that's parking lights? You're looking for a brown wire. It will be the thinnest one, and only carries 10 amps.

Apparently it was a Canadian truck, and has lots of undercarriage rust. Rust doesn't scare me in the desert—it comes here to die. If that was the only issue, I'd negotiate the hell out of it, then treat it, paint it, and forget about it.

https://www.wattsautomotive.com/details-2013-ford-f~150-svt_raptor-used-1ftfw1r66dfc90446.html Looks like a nice truck! New KO2s, lots of options, 60k miles, and a blower. Someone is going to get a pretty nice truck for under $40k.

UPDATE: I've been running 38 F / 36 R psi for about a week. I like the ride over bumps in town, but I did some 65-75 mph freeway driving this week and felt they were noisier than I remembered them being when they had more pressure. Since I can never leave well enough alone, I aired them back up...

Bye the way, I meant KO2s would be less noisy. KM3, KO2, I get confused!

I used my x4 programmer to lower the pressures on the TPMS to 35. What size/load range are your tires?

DUH! Thanks for clarifying. Now I understand. Getting old sucks!

I've been running these 35x12.5R17 KM3s at 38F/36R for about a week. They ride really nice at that pressure. They chalk out fine too. They also chalk out fine at higher pressure (44/40). What I've noticed is that at the lower pressure the ride is substantially better. The negatives of the lower...

You'll just have to readjust pressure after rotating. Chalking is more of a pressure relationship right? Once you know what's best for front/rear, you just reset the pressures where they were on front/rear after they are rotated, and you'll be good to go—unless I'm missing something, that's the...

They are not that quiet, no. You can hear them on the highway but it’s bearable. It’s a compromise. I love the look, but if I was buying with noise as a top priority I would go KO3. For example, I don’t drive freeway daily. If I did, I think I’d go KO3.

Thanks!

I’ll probably try that out too. I ran my KO2s at factory 44, and they wore fine for 45k miles, still had tread. I little thinner in the middle but not bad. They were just too rough at that pressure.

I believe this is D rated load PER TIRE at these pressures, but it gives you an idea: LT315/70R17 load capacities 50 psi=3195lbs 45 psi=2915lbs 40 psi=2685lbs 35 psi=2535lbs In other words, as long as you aren't beyond those loads per tire then your tire will not be out of shape. According to...

That's only if the tires are deflated enough to create deformity. At 34-38 psi, your tires are still more than fully filled under the load of just the truck weight. They don't lose their shape unless you air them down a lot—like running off-road pressures (in the 20s) on the street.

I’m using an SCTx4 tuner to adjust. Set it to 35, aired down to Front 38 / Rear 36 and it is a noticeable improvement. Thanks for everyone’s input!