GEN 2 How to make upfitter switches hot all the time?

GUIDE - How to make upfitter switches hot all the time

IT WORKS! Okay, here's what you need to do (huge thanks to @Swarfworks for the video, help, PMs, and figuring this out in general - ALL credit goes to him)

Figured we need a new thread for this since I cannot find any information out anywhere for the Gen 2 Raptor. I installed LED warning lights (amber / white) and they need to be able to be left on when the truck is off, and walk away when parked, and this does it!

Check out this video that Swarf did here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YIs3pooPmjc

You'll want to get an ATR Micro2 add-a-fuse like this one when needing anything from constant power off the fuse panel near the passenger side door block:

Lumision FAST SHIPPING ADD-A-CIRCUIT ATR MICRO2 FUSE-TAP Add ON DUAL CIRCUIT ADAPTER AUTO CAR TERMINAL + 5 AMP Fuse

This one comes with a few extra fuses for $2 more, currently

Run that line up the passenger side A-pillar, UNDER the airbag in the headliner (not over it, you'll understand once you pull the trim out), across the headliner, and into the console where the upfitter switches are located. Once you get that in there, find the wiring harness that attaches at the back of the console where the upfitter switches are, and then Swarf mentions this:

Pin 5 runs switches 5&6 (5amp switches) brown/white
Pin 11 runs switches 1-4 (15&10amp switches) brown/white.

You MUST CUT the wire that feeds to the pin of your choice. Tape off the one end of the wire that is toward the roof side and connect constant power to the switch side of that wire.

Click to expand...

Ok so, you’ll want to cut it maybe an inch or so from the switch. Then tape off the side that comes from the roof. You’ll constant power that you’ll be adding wil be the only thing going to pin 5, as opposed to “T”ing into it.

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And that's it! BOOM, my LED warning lights hooked to upfitter switch 6 works ALL the time now, no need for the truck to be in the on position or running. NICE.

Hey bud. Sorry that you’re still struggling with this. That is the video that I made and posted to YouTube. Not to rub it in, but mine is still working flawlessly.

I don’t remember what fuse location I stole constant 12v from. I could probably go check.

Sounds like you might be best to put a diode in there if it’s powering things it shouldn’t.

It’s been a while now since I did that so I need to get reacquainted with what I did. lol

Ok ok ok... edit time here. I just watched my video again and think maybe I forgot a detail. You need to CUT the wire that goes to pin 5 ( for switches 5&6, or pin 11 for switches 1-4).

By not cutting it, you’re back feeding the fuse box and energizing the accessory fuses while the truck is off, hence the the other fuse taps having power.

Now go snip snip and guarantee it works.

EDIT - guide is up, huge thanks to Swarf for the help!

KryptosXLayer2 said:

[
Edit to YOUR edit - oh my God, I think you're right, I definitely did not cut the wire for Pin 5! Okay, which side did you cut and attach the wiring to, the feed line from the fuse box goes into the wiring harness, and the line going from that pin gets cut, is that how I'm understanding it?

Click to expand...

Ok so, you’ll want to cut it maybe an inch or so from the switch. Then tape off the side that comes from the roof. You’ll constant power that you’ll be adding wil be the only thing going to pin 5, as opposed to “T”ing into it.

Hope that makes sense.

Swarfworks said:

Ok so, you’ll want to cut it maybe an inch or so from the switch. Then tape off the side that comes from the roof. You’ll constant power that you’ll be adding wil be the only thing going to pin 5, as opposed to “T”ing into it.

Hope that makes sense.

Click to expand...

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU.

Got it all working now. Went out to the truck as soon as I saw your post and started working on it. Had the line run still and just needed to cut the wire you described to prevent it from giving the entire fuse panel constant power. I never even turned the truck to the on position and my LED warning lights are working with the truck off, doors locked, perfect. YOU ROCK my friend!

You are very welcome! Glad I could be of help finally. The minute I said it sounded like you needed a diode, it came to me.

Anyway, carry on and keep on modding my friend!

Paul

These posts are incredibly helpful- I am wanting to do something similar to run a dash cam while I the truck is parked *(occasionally).
3 Questions:

1) In order to use the Upfitter switch wire inside the passenger footwell I need to connect the 2 in the engine bay?
2) And is there a way to energize that brown wire for switches 5 and 6 in the foot well or do I need to run a wire all the way to the switch?
3) I have 3 wires for the camera- ground, acc and battery- I assume the acc connects to the switch wire? Then what happens to the battery wire?

Sorry for the dense questions-

Complete newbie with a new truck...

Thanks in advance.

P

I don't understand why Ford didn't just mimic the design from Super-Duty series. In the fuse box on a Super Duty you just open the distribution box, and slide a lever and voila, all the up fitters are hot.

Why did I think the last two uplifter switches were 5 Amps only? I thought that is what the manual said?

Seems odd. I wonder if there is a way in the relay panel to adjust the power characteristics rather than change it within the vehicle?

heffneil said:

Why did I think the last two uplifter switches were 5 Amps only? I thought that is what the manual said?

Seems odd. I wonder if there is a way in the relay panel to adjust the power characteristics rather than change it within the vehicle?

Click to expand...

They are 5A just like the manual says (you are correct)

1 - 15
2 - 15
3 - 10
4 - 10
5 - 5
6 - 5