Finally home and able to start getting some installs done.
Supplies:
-2 Whelen Vertex Amber LEDs
-2 Black Vertex Flange Mounts
-On/On Momentary Switch
-Wire
-Heat Shrink Tubing
-Solder
-Quick-Connects
Tools:
-Drill
-Screw Drivers
-1" Hole Saw
-Drill Bits
-Socket Set
-Solder Gun
-Dremel
Here's a little before picture to start with. I decided to mount these on the back of the cab because it's the highest possible location without any additions to the truck.
I started with opening up the glove box and access panel to the AUX wires.
The head liner needs to be popped down in the rear in order to run the wires from the lights. There are two plastic retaining clips that will pop right out. I reached under the back of the liner next to the window and just pulled it down. Once you pull it down a little bit you can get your fingers closer to those retaining clips.
You have to remove the plastic plate on the floor before you can completely remove the rear pillar. Well, it at least makes it easier to remove that way.
Then I went ahead and removed the rear pillars. There is a little cap covering a 7mm bolt that you will have to take off. Once you remove the bolt the pillar can be popped out. It takes a little caressing.
Just so you don't mess up the head liner I would remove the clothes hangers so that you can drop the liner down a little more without bending it too bad. I'm not sure how to remove the screw cover without breaking it. I had to put it back on with a little silicone because the bottom is attached. It looks as if it should bend down to reveal the screw but both of mine completely broke off.
Remove the two screws holding the third break light in and let it hang down. You can remove it completely if you want it out of the way but that's not necessary.
Now starts the intimidating part. The main hole for these lights needs to be cut with a 1" hole saw. I measured over 3" and up 1" to find my starting point on both sides.
I drilled a pilot hole to start with so that my hole saw didn't get off my mark.
This is where it gets scary. With a 1" hole saw (make sure it's designed to cut metal) go ahead and cut your holes. There are two layers you'll have to go through in order to get to the channel that you can see behind the head liner. I bought a pretty nice hole-saw for this and somehow the bit bent almost instantly. Took it out and straightened it out to the best of my ability. I was too concerned with the outcome of the holes as the mounting flanges will cover up any blemishes.
Now you can go ahead and fish the wires through both holes and down towards the third break light opening.
There's already a hole for the third break light wiring so just fish the wires down through that. This is where you will be able to see the wires under the head liner.
Pull the wires all of the way through so that the lights are flush with the cab.
There are two screws for the mounting flange. I drilled a small pilot hole for the screws. The first hole I eyeballed and then made sure it was exactly 1" up.
Then I placed the flange on the light, lined up the hole I just drilled and then made a mark for the other hole. After that I removed the flange, measured 1" up, and drilled the second hole.
These came with gaskets to seal up the flange from leaking. They weren't the easiest to line up so I placed a little silicone on the back to help keep it in place.
I put it roughly into position and then placed some more silicone on the back of the LED to help seal it up some more.
Put your two screws in and you're done with the mounting.
You can run the wires from the hole down to the driver's side rear pillar. Then put the head liner back up and inserting the retaining clips.
I decided to mount the pattern switch on the driver's side rear pillar because it is a lot easier to switch through the patters when you can see the lights. This allows you to stand outside while looking at the lights and reach in the door to push the switch. I found good spot to put the switch that also had plenty of clearance and drilled a pilot hole.
I then measured my switch and drew the lines for my cutout with out dremel.
First time was a charm.
I made sure it was lined up perfectly and then flipped it over to apply some epoxy to keep it from moving.
Now you can run your power wire from the AUX wire in the dash.
Wrap it around the back so it comes out by the driver's side rear pillar.
I used this screw for a ground, it's a 5/16" bolt. Used a standard wire eyelet, clamped down, and then soldered.
Now you can solder the rest of your wires together. Black: Ground, Green: Sync, Red: 12V Power, White: Pattern. Make sure to leave the pattern wires alone for now. I just placed some heat shrink tubing over the end to cover them up.
After doing that, I forgot to add in a jumper to my power to run the switch. I used a quick connect splicer. Soldering the other end to the center pole of the switch.
Now you can solder one pattern wire to each of the other poles. I tested the lights so that I could put the right light on the top and left on bottom but somehow that's not how the switch works.
Now with the pillar reinstalled.
Here is a video of the final outcome.
Ford Raptor Whelen Vertex Rear Facing Ambers - YouTube
Couple night shots.
Please do not hesitate to post your questions, comments, or concerns. Thank you!
Supplies:
-2 Whelen Vertex Amber LEDs
-2 Black Vertex Flange Mounts
-On/On Momentary Switch
-Wire
-Heat Shrink Tubing
-Solder
-Quick-Connects
Tools:
-Drill
-Screw Drivers
-1" Hole Saw
-Drill Bits
-Socket Set
-Solder Gun
-Dremel
Here's a little before picture to start with. I decided to mount these on the back of the cab because it's the highest possible location without any additions to the truck.
I started with opening up the glove box and access panel to the AUX wires.
The head liner needs to be popped down in the rear in order to run the wires from the lights. There are two plastic retaining clips that will pop right out. I reached under the back of the liner next to the window and just pulled it down. Once you pull it down a little bit you can get your fingers closer to those retaining clips.
You have to remove the plastic plate on the floor before you can completely remove the rear pillar. Well, it at least makes it easier to remove that way.
Then I went ahead and removed the rear pillars. There is a little cap covering a 7mm bolt that you will have to take off. Once you remove the bolt the pillar can be popped out. It takes a little caressing.
Just so you don't mess up the head liner I would remove the clothes hangers so that you can drop the liner down a little more without bending it too bad. I'm not sure how to remove the screw cover without breaking it. I had to put it back on with a little silicone because the bottom is attached. It looks as if it should bend down to reveal the screw but both of mine completely broke off.
Remove the two screws holding the third break light in and let it hang down. You can remove it completely if you want it out of the way but that's not necessary.
Now starts the intimidating part. The main hole for these lights needs to be cut with a 1" hole saw. I measured over 3" and up 1" to find my starting point on both sides.
I drilled a pilot hole to start with so that my hole saw didn't get off my mark.
This is where it gets scary. With a 1" hole saw (make sure it's designed to cut metal) go ahead and cut your holes. There are two layers you'll have to go through in order to get to the channel that you can see behind the head liner. I bought a pretty nice hole-saw for this and somehow the bit bent almost instantly. Took it out and straightened it out to the best of my ability. I was too concerned with the outcome of the holes as the mounting flanges will cover up any blemishes.
Now you can go ahead and fish the wires through both holes and down towards the third break light opening.
There's already a hole for the third break light wiring so just fish the wires down through that. This is where you will be able to see the wires under the head liner.
Pull the wires all of the way through so that the lights are flush with the cab.
There are two screws for the mounting flange. I drilled a small pilot hole for the screws. The first hole I eyeballed and then made sure it was exactly 1" up.
Then I placed the flange on the light, lined up the hole I just drilled and then made a mark for the other hole. After that I removed the flange, measured 1" up, and drilled the second hole.
These came with gaskets to seal up the flange from leaking. They weren't the easiest to line up so I placed a little silicone on the back to help keep it in place.
I put it roughly into position and then placed some more silicone on the back of the LED to help seal it up some more.
Put your two screws in and you're done with the mounting.
You can run the wires from the hole down to the driver's side rear pillar. Then put the head liner back up and inserting the retaining clips.
I decided to mount the pattern switch on the driver's side rear pillar because it is a lot easier to switch through the patters when you can see the lights. This allows you to stand outside while looking at the lights and reach in the door to push the switch. I found good spot to put the switch that also had plenty of clearance and drilled a pilot hole.
I then measured my switch and drew the lines for my cutout with out dremel.
First time was a charm.
I made sure it was lined up perfectly and then flipped it over to apply some epoxy to keep it from moving.
Now you can run your power wire from the AUX wire in the dash.
Wrap it around the back so it comes out by the driver's side rear pillar.
I used this screw for a ground, it's a 5/16" bolt. Used a standard wire eyelet, clamped down, and then soldered.
Now you can solder the rest of your wires together. Black: Ground, Green: Sync, Red: 12V Power, White: Pattern. Make sure to leave the pattern wires alone for now. I just placed some heat shrink tubing over the end to cover them up.
After doing that, I forgot to add in a jumper to my power to run the switch. I used a quick connect splicer. Soldering the other end to the center pole of the switch.
Now you can solder one pattern wire to each of the other poles. I tested the lights so that I could put the right light on the top and left on bottom but somehow that's not how the switch works.
Now with the pillar reinstalled.
Here is a video of the final outcome.
Ford Raptor Whelen Vertex Rear Facing Ambers - YouTube
Couple night shots.
Please do not hesitate to post your questions, comments, or concerns. Thank you!
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