MAG-HYTEC question

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Raptor911

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Going to install the MAG-HYTEC rear diff cover today. I have a question about removing the factory cover. Should I remove the stock bolts with a pneumatic impact gun or would just a hand ratchet/socket be sufficient?
 
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If it's not too late, I suggest even applying a light coat of silicone sealer around the supplied seal as well. I just like to reinforce things.
 

Ruger

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The faster you try to spin those small bolts, the more likely you are to sheer one. I didn't have any trouble at all loosening them when I installed my MagHytec differential cover.

The real challenge, and for me it really was a challenge, was to get the factory cover off AFTER the bolts were all removed. It wouldn't pry off, and wouldn't even respond to increasingly frustrated application of a rubber mallet. I had to use a steel chisel, and even then it was a fight. Of course use of the chisel did some minor damage to the mounting surface, so some clean-up of the surface was subsequently necessary.

I don't know what Ford uses to seal the cover to the differential, but in my experience it's more of a glue than an sealant. It convinced me to not try to remove the front differential cover to service it. (It has no drain plug, just like the rear diff cover.) So I sucked out the factory lube with a fluid pump, successfully removing about 70 percent, and refilled with full synthetic. Until somebody makes a front diff cover with a drain plug (unlikely, in my opinion), that's how I'm going to do it. In the mean time I have one of Dimple's super magnetic drain plugs installed in the filler hole.
 

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I agree on how glued on the stock covers are. I've replaced more than I can remember but I take a hammer and sharp chisel and carefully break it loose at the seam. Then I take a wire wheel and clean every spec of sealer off. Make sure no sealer debris is left inside the diff housing and then apply some silicone sealer to the new cover along with it's supplied seal. Then apply all the bolts and hand tighten. When tightening I recommend a diagonal pattern to make sure of an even setting for the cover. Make the bolts are nice and snug, but don't over tighten.
 
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Raptor911

Raptor911

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Update: Install went well. I removed the spare and put my rear wheels up on blocks so I could comfortably sit under the bed and work. Some highlights:

1- the key to access the mechanism to lower the tire showed some rust. I suggest guys remove them and spray them down with some rust inhibitor.
2 - Once the 12 factory 13mm bolts were loosen, I hit the factory cover for 10 mins with a dead hammer and it was not budging. I then used the smallest flat-head screw driver I had and lightly tapped the edge between the cover and the diff and was able to pry the cover off enough and the fluid started to flow.
3 - I then removed the cover and there was a lot of factory sealant on the surface. Using a cloth, I used paint removal to lightly wet the sealant and the sealant immediately got soft. I then used a razor blade to gently scrapped off the old sealant. I did this for an hour making sure the surfaced was clean. I also made sure no debris got inside the diff gears which is now exposed.
4 - Per everyone's recommendation, I purchased some silicone gasket maker and also some thread sealant.
5 - Mag - Hytec cover fit perfectly and all 12 bolts lined up. I torqued all the bolts accordingly (using a cross pattern).
6 - I love filling the diff cover using the dipstick hole with a funnel. Much easier than using a damn hand-pump.
7 - I had an old bicycle tube and I cut up the rubber to secure the abs wire sensor to the brake line.
8 - With the spare off I took the opportunity to check the tire pressure (was 35psi and I added air up to 46psi ) and give it a good wash.

All in all Mag-hytec is a great product. The Mag-hytec cover is so much more functional and better looking than the dinky factory diff cover. I should have done this a long time ago.

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