37" BFG ATs

whoisbigman · Jan 19, 2014

Jarrett H said:

pics when done please...

Jarrett H · Jan 22, 2014

http://www.fordraptorforum.com/f25/method-nv-beadlock-wheels-mounted-30943/#post608233

Ramrodthrusterpuppy · Jan 24, 2014

I've been running 37/12.50/17 BFG ATs on OEM beadlocks (mid perch) since last Fall, mild off-roading (no jumps), Winter driving....no rubbing issues at all. Personally, I firmly believe wheel offset is the key to rubbing or not with little to no other modifications. I'm not sure that a 0 or negative offset wheel wouldn't rub, but I may run small spacers (~1") with my beadlocks just to get a *little* more wider stance. I don't think I'll go back to my 35" Toyo M/Ts on ProComp wheels for the Summer....which sucks, 'cuz I just bought them last year! Lol!

BAJASVT · Jan 24, 2014

Thanks, Ramrod. I've heard enough... I'm ordering these.

Are you running the OEM wheels in stock configuration with the beauty ring or do you have the Ford Racing beadlock ring installed? This is an 8.5" wide wheel, but I feel a 9" width would more accurately describe the width when the Ford Racing beadlock is installed due to the tires outer bead technically being mounted outside the factory seat. I know a few members here have installed the Ford Racing beadlock ring on the OEM beautylock wheels; I'd be curious to know if anyone took a tire height measurment comparison between OEM beautylock and Ford Racing beadlock. Other members are measuring an actual ~36.3" diameter on these tires... I'm guessing the Ford Racing beadlock would fatten the tire slightly, but pull that ~36.3" down to about ~36.0", which is fine with me (less chance of rubbing).

Also, have you shopped around for spacers? What have you found? There's another thread floating around where someone found some hubcentric 6x135 spacers, but they're 1.5" thick. If you only run 1" spacers, I'm pretty sure you'll need to grind down your OEM wheel studs or replace them with shorter studs or they'll protrude through the 1" spacer to the mounting face for the wheel hub.

Please keep us updated.

vince7870 · Jan 26, 2014

with the 37's are you guys getting computer reprogrammed by ford to correct speed and shift points? is that even an option? is anyone changing gearing? is that necessary?

TheJoker · Jan 26, 2014

vince7870 said:
with the 37's are you guys getting computer reprogrammed by ford to correct speed and shift points? is that even an option? is anyone changing gearing? is that necessary?

If you have a tunner, you can change the tire size to correct your speed. Gearing isn't really an issue with 4:10.

Killjohnathan · Jan 26, 2014

Thanks for the answer Joker, I was wondering the same thing about the speedo

Hockster · Jan 26, 2014

Well, if you change to 37 tires you should change your axle ratio to 431 or so but they dont make that gear so best would be 456 to get close to the 410 gearing.

BAJASVT · Jan 26, 2014

Hockster said:
Well, if you change to 37 tires you should change your axle ratio to 431 or so but they dont make that gear so best would be 456 to get close to the 410 gearing.

Agreed!

A lot of guys running older Ford trucks w/ the 4.6L or 5.4L are running 4.56 gears with 35" tires, but the 6.2L can get away with a 4.10 because of it's additional torque. Like Hockster said, even with a 6.2L and a 37" tire, something with a higher ratio than 4.10 would be ideal. For those with a 2010 and a 5.4L, I'd recommend 4.56 gears if you're running a 37" tire.

TheJoker · Jan 26, 2014

So what I think we agree on, is that the 6.2l could get by with the stock 4.10 gears with 35"-37(36.3)" tires. But, ideally you would be better off with 4.56 gears? Now who makes them and where is the best place to buy them? Also, I'm guessing that the front gears for the 2010-11 and the 2012+ would be different?

37" BFG ATs

whoisbigman

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Jarrett H

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Ramrodthrusterpuppy

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BAJASVT

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vince7870

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TheJoker

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Killjohnathan

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Hockster

My 45ft Bluewater Party

BAJASVT

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TheJoker

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