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GEN 2 (2017-2020) Ford F-150 Raptor Forums
Ford Raptor Engine Discussion and Performance Mods
Upgrading the TWINS
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<blockquote data-quote="Graybeard" data-source="post: 1704723" data-attributes="member: 49070"><p><strong>Fuel System </strong></p><p>You really only need to upgrade the fuel system if you want to run E85. If you have easy access to E85, it is super cheap right now and makes excellent power. Maybe too much. I enjoy a lot of power, but I can honestly say that my E85 tune is so incredibly fast that I worry I may break things. Worried mostly about the transmission. But WOW. </p><p></p><p>I won’t get into the specifics, but these engines love ethanol. It seems that many people are doing their own blend of E50 at the pump and enjoying their experience. I decided that I wanted my truck to be E85 compatible. Sure, I wish it had a sensor to automatically switch fuel types, but the big one for me was engine safety. There is a lot of headroom in fueling capability for pump gas. But, from what I understand, above E50 the engine may not have enough fuel flow to meet demand. This could cause a lean situation under high load. Think all the bad things you want to think about that. </p><p></p><p>The recommended fix is a HPFP upgrade (EVO) and ID1050 injectors. The “ EVO” is roughly 35% higher flow than stock. The ID1050 replace the supplementary injectors up top, so you don’t have to mess with the direct injectors on this engine. No injector pigtails are needed, these just drop right on in. A little fussing, but nothing big. No in-tank booster seems necessary at this time. After making these modifications to increase overall flow, the engine should now be able to meet the full fuel supply demanded when using E85 at WOT. You still need to switch between 91/93 and E85 tunes…. But that isn’t horrible knowing I won’t hurt the motor by going lean. </p><p></p><p>I found the Ford manual most helpful regarding the HPFP specific to the Raptor. The torque secs listed online for XDI are way too big for the stock bolts. You do not need an o-ring for the HPFP pump like you do on the stock unit. It seems to have a flat gasket designed into the unit. Most tuners online do not replace the seals underneath the fuel pump mounting plate, however the manual says these should all be replaced. </p><p></p><p>The XDI pump recommends that you check the roller tappet every oil change. That’s every 5k miles. “Checking” the roller involves depressurizing the fuel and physically removing the high pressure fuel pump which also necessitates replacement of the high pressure fuel rail, seals, and bolts again. I might not check mine every 5k. The manual says that the roller should be lubricated with engine oil. I used assembly lube. Old habits die hard. I like how assembly lube is a bit thicker and sticks to the parts for that initial start up. Mine is purple, so it is a good visual indicator to tell if lube was applied.</p><p></p><p></p><p><strong>Fuel Choice </strong></p><p>The factory manual states that all you need is 89 octane. Yes, it runs but I don’t think it likes it. Higher octane is always a good idea with boosted engines. Up here in Michigan, I was surprised to not find 91 octane at my local gas station. We have 87, 89, 93, and E85 readily available locally. I had to hunt down the closest Sunoco to find 91 at the pump. One can easily mix 89/93 at the pump to make 91. You can always run higher octane on a lower octane tune, but you want a “pure” tank of fuel for tuning. I would recommend tuning with the fuel from the gas station you frequent most.</p><p></p><p>I used an 8 foot length of 1/4” fuel line to connect to the passenger side fuel rail and route to a fuel container. You will likely need to drain your tank a few times in the tuning process. </p><p></p><p><em>To depressurize;</em></p><p>Start the truck like normal</p><p>Use AccessPORT to turn off the fuel pump</p><p>Let the engine die to relieve fuel rail pressure </p><p>Remove intake manifold</p><p>Remove fuel “jumper” between secondary injector rails </p><p>Attach fuel hose to line and route to storage container </p><p>Key on (engine off) - use AccessPORT to command fuel pump ON</p><p>Watch the milage drop to zero as the tank is drained…. </p><p>Once fully emptied, put it all back together and fill up with your fuel of choice for tuning</p><p></p><p>Alternatively to using the AccessPORT, the manual suggest disconnecting the fuel pump module connector (located above the gas tank) to depressurize the system. This does not allow you to enable the pump to assist in draining the tank. It is actually impressive how 0 miles of range was an empty tank. I don’t think I will push this thing close to empty ever again! I was under the impression there would be about a gallon left. Zero range was zero fuel left in the tank. FYI. </p><p></p><p>Although the manual requires new seals to be used on the intake manifold each time it is removed, it would seem that would be only if the manifold has been installed for a while and has gone through quite a few thermocycles. Pulling the manifold on and off a few times did not seem to damage the new seals. One new fresh set worked well for me. We shall see if I can spot a leak here in the future but all looks good right now </p><p></p><p></p><p><strong>Tuning </strong></p><p>Before you start tuning, take the time to set up the Accessport to display some important data. I suggest the following - AFR, Boost, Air charge temp, short term fuel trim. I didn’t get around to figuring out how to do this until the end of tuning and this would have helped me monitor things better. It is not apparent how to modify the AccessPORT display, so find some Youtube videos or forums for support here. I was stuck on the setting to display 1-6 different gages of the same data. The factory setting showed transmission clutch pressure in each and every screen and displayed the same data up to 6 times. It was frustrating because you change the datalog configuration differently than you do the gage display. And if you change the number of gages displayed, you have to set up all the data again. You definitely do not want to be setting this up while rolling down the road. This part could be a lot better. But, once it is set up to your liking it is quite helpful. </p><p></p><p>Being able to watch AFR means that you can monitor if you ever approach going lean while doing your testing. You can also see when and how your engine is learning when going through different fuels. </p><p></p><p>I chose COBB and the Accessport product for tuning. There are lots of options here. A good tuner can help walk you through the process. I chose Winfield at Goosetune to help me with my tuning needs. Super responsive. Nice guy. I get the sense that the guy can hardly sleep so many people are bothering him for tunes. </p><p></p><p>Prior to doing this turbo swap, I was using COBB AccessPORT with their factory tunes, TCM, and the CAI. It worked well for the most part. Definitely improved power and handling over stock, but I am seeing a lot more refinement from custom tuning. It’s just less clunky when everything is dialed in right. </p><p></p><p>I had four tunes generated for my truck. For basic pump gas I have 91, 93 and a 91 "tow” tune. I also wanted to play with E85. I don’t see much value in E50, given that you have to mix the tank manually at the pump and I made fuel system modifications to support increased E85 flow requirements. </p><p></p><p>Do you want a top speed limiter? I do! If you were to calculate the centripetal force and rotating inertia on these tires rolling over 100mph it would literally scare you. The speed limit exists on this vehicle to prevent a blowout. I can’t imagine what losing a tire at over 100mph on these things would feel like, but I don’t want to try it. 37’s will be even worse. </p><p></p><p>These things are great. The control system protects the engine quite well and unless you are running E85 with stock fueling you won’t go lean. This was my first remote “tuning” experience and I have been impressed. I did it with an “e-tune” that was emailed to me. No dyno time slot needed. </p><p></p><p>To perform the datalogs, I found myself a nice straight stretch of back country road. You need less than a mile. This process is actually quite simple and is nothing to get anxiety about. The trickiest part is pushing a button on the AccessPORT to start and stop your datalog while driving. It is really that simple, although AcessPORT likes to shut down this screen if you don’t use it for a few moments. If you wait too long, it will reinitialize and you will be half way through your pass before the tool can start to datalog. That’s annoying. </p><p></p><p>To do my pulls, I started out in regular “D” automatic. Once moving, I clicked the trans back into Manual mode. Adjust the gear selection to ensure you are in 4th. Let it settle out around 2,500 rpm (about 35mph) and click the button to start the data log. My tuner wanted 10 seconds at 2,500 rpm before WOT to 5,800rpm. I can tell you that in 4th gear the torque comes on nice and gradual, building up power at higher rpm. Vehicle is not squirrelly, and she takes the load politely on-road. Two pulls for each tuning revision was recommended. I ran the truck in 4A for my pulls to ensure no traction issues. Datalog files show up as a CSV (easy to read if you like) and are easily emailed off to your tuner for iteration of your tune file. Each datalog was approximately 35-50kb in size.</p><p></p><p>I went through about a dozen versions of my tune before it was dialed in on 91 octane. The vehicle slowly got quicker and quicker doing the pulls. No hard street driving is recommended until the tune is more refined. I’ve been scanning the datalogs, but can’t really tell what is being tuned behind the scenes. As may be expected, I did see the fueling more on the rich side early in the tuning process with AFR down close to 10:1. Once mature, peak AFR was around 10.58 but also spent less time there. That sounds like the right fueling for peak torque to me. Peak boost levels were just over 22psi. While tuning the 91 octane map, I noticed that a good push of the right pedal reduced my expected range by 1-2 miles per push. A few heavy passes only put a handful of miles on the truck, but took off about 20 miles of range. She’s quick. I think I chirped all four tires on dry pavement today. She has never been this fast. If this is the low octane tune, I wonder what E85 is going to feel like.</p><p></p><p>Sometimes the tuning process felt slow. Most of the time, I heard back within 2-4 hours with the next step, sometimes the next day around lunch. Overall, it took about 5 days to refine the first 91 octane tune. I had assumed I could do all tuning in one week or less, but that was too optimistic. The advantage of a day on a Dyno must be that your vehicle is finished tuning in one day. That, plus you would see actual wheel hp on your truck. No real explanation was given regarding what parameters were being tuned, but the truck ran much better than it ever has. Everything seems to work together much better now. I wasn’t seeking a particular hp figure anyway. Just all day long reliable gluttonous overwhelming power. </p><p></p><p>I noticed that my idle was very low after reflashing the ECU a few times. Apparently when you reset the adaptive learning, the control system will need to re-learn idle speed and that can take some time. I saw idle as low as about 500 rpm when doing my reflash cycles. She’s a bit shaky at that low of an idle, smoothing out above 600rpm or so. Just be prepared for that. This is not a calibration issue, jut an ECU learning curve thing.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Graybeard, post: 1704723, member: 49070"] [B]Fuel System [/B] You really only need to upgrade the fuel system if you want to run E85. If you have easy access to E85, it is super cheap right now and makes excellent power. Maybe too much. I enjoy a lot of power, but I can honestly say that my E85 tune is so incredibly fast that I worry I may break things. Worried mostly about the transmission. But WOW. I won’t get into the specifics, but these engines love ethanol. It seems that many people are doing their own blend of E50 at the pump and enjoying their experience. I decided that I wanted my truck to be E85 compatible. Sure, I wish it had a sensor to automatically switch fuel types, but the big one for me was engine safety. There is a lot of headroom in fueling capability for pump gas. But, from what I understand, above E50 the engine may not have enough fuel flow to meet demand. This could cause a lean situation under high load. Think all the bad things you want to think about that. The recommended fix is a HPFP upgrade (EVO) and ID1050 injectors. The “ EVO” is roughly 35% higher flow than stock. The ID1050 replace the supplementary injectors up top, so you don’t have to mess with the direct injectors on this engine. No injector pigtails are needed, these just drop right on in. A little fussing, but nothing big. No in-tank booster seems necessary at this time. After making these modifications to increase overall flow, the engine should now be able to meet the full fuel supply demanded when using E85 at WOT. You still need to switch between 91/93 and E85 tunes…. But that isn’t horrible knowing I won’t hurt the motor by going lean. I found the Ford manual most helpful regarding the HPFP specific to the Raptor. The torque secs listed online for XDI are way too big for the stock bolts. You do not need an o-ring for the HPFP pump like you do on the stock unit. It seems to have a flat gasket designed into the unit. Most tuners online do not replace the seals underneath the fuel pump mounting plate, however the manual says these should all be replaced. The XDI pump recommends that you check the roller tappet every oil change. That’s every 5k miles. “Checking” the roller involves depressurizing the fuel and physically removing the high pressure fuel pump which also necessitates replacement of the high pressure fuel rail, seals, and bolts again. I might not check mine every 5k. The manual says that the roller should be lubricated with engine oil. I used assembly lube. Old habits die hard. I like how assembly lube is a bit thicker and sticks to the parts for that initial start up. Mine is purple, so it is a good visual indicator to tell if lube was applied. [B]Fuel Choice [/B] The factory manual states that all you need is 89 octane. Yes, it runs but I don’t think it likes it. Higher octane is always a good idea with boosted engines. Up here in Michigan, I was surprised to not find 91 octane at my local gas station. We have 87, 89, 93, and E85 readily available locally. I had to hunt down the closest Sunoco to find 91 at the pump. One can easily mix 89/93 at the pump to make 91. You can always run higher octane on a lower octane tune, but you want a “pure” tank of fuel for tuning. I would recommend tuning with the fuel from the gas station you frequent most. I used an 8 foot length of 1/4” fuel line to connect to the passenger side fuel rail and route to a fuel container. You will likely need to drain your tank a few times in the tuning process. [I]To depressurize;[/I] Start the truck like normal Use AccessPORT to turn off the fuel pump Let the engine die to relieve fuel rail pressure Remove intake manifold Remove fuel “jumper” between secondary injector rails Attach fuel hose to line and route to storage container Key on (engine off) - use AccessPORT to command fuel pump ON Watch the milage drop to zero as the tank is drained…. Once fully emptied, put it all back together and fill up with your fuel of choice for tuning Alternatively to using the AccessPORT, the manual suggest disconnecting the fuel pump module connector (located above the gas tank) to depressurize the system. This does not allow you to enable the pump to assist in draining the tank. It is actually impressive how 0 miles of range was an empty tank. I don’t think I will push this thing close to empty ever again! I was under the impression there would be about a gallon left. Zero range was zero fuel left in the tank. FYI. Although the manual requires new seals to be used on the intake manifold each time it is removed, it would seem that would be only if the manifold has been installed for a while and has gone through quite a few thermocycles. Pulling the manifold on and off a few times did not seem to damage the new seals. One new fresh set worked well for me. We shall see if I can spot a leak here in the future but all looks good right now [B]Tuning [/B] Before you start tuning, take the time to set up the Accessport to display some important data. I suggest the following - AFR, Boost, Air charge temp, short term fuel trim. I didn’t get around to figuring out how to do this until the end of tuning and this would have helped me monitor things better. It is not apparent how to modify the AccessPORT display, so find some Youtube videos or forums for support here. I was stuck on the setting to display 1-6 different gages of the same data. The factory setting showed transmission clutch pressure in each and every screen and displayed the same data up to 6 times. It was frustrating because you change the datalog configuration differently than you do the gage display. And if you change the number of gages displayed, you have to set up all the data again. You definitely do not want to be setting this up while rolling down the road. This part could be a lot better. But, once it is set up to your liking it is quite helpful. Being able to watch AFR means that you can monitor if you ever approach going lean while doing your testing. You can also see when and how your engine is learning when going through different fuels. [B][/B] I chose COBB and the Accessport product for tuning. There are lots of options here. A good tuner can help walk you through the process. I chose Winfield at Goosetune to help me with my tuning needs. Super responsive. Nice guy. I get the sense that the guy can hardly sleep so many people are bothering him for tunes. Prior to doing this turbo swap, I was using COBB AccessPORT with their factory tunes, TCM, and the CAI. It worked well for the most part. Definitely improved power and handling over stock, but I am seeing a lot more refinement from custom tuning. It’s just less clunky when everything is dialed in right. I had four tunes generated for my truck. For basic pump gas I have 91, 93 and a 91 "tow” tune. I also wanted to play with E85. I don’t see much value in E50, given that you have to mix the tank manually at the pump and I made fuel system modifications to support increased E85 flow requirements. Do you want a top speed limiter? I do! If you were to calculate the centripetal force and rotating inertia on these tires rolling over 100mph it would literally scare you. The speed limit exists on this vehicle to prevent a blowout. I can’t imagine what losing a tire at over 100mph on these things would feel like, but I don’t want to try it. 37’s will be even worse. These things are great. The control system protects the engine quite well and unless you are running E85 with stock fueling you won’t go lean. This was my first remote “tuning” experience and I have been impressed. I did it with an “e-tune” that was emailed to me. No dyno time slot needed. To perform the datalogs, I found myself a nice straight stretch of back country road. You need less than a mile. This process is actually quite simple and is nothing to get anxiety about. The trickiest part is pushing a button on the AccessPORT to start and stop your datalog while driving. It is really that simple, although AcessPORT likes to shut down this screen if you don’t use it for a few moments. If you wait too long, it will reinitialize and you will be half way through your pass before the tool can start to datalog. That’s annoying. To do my pulls, I started out in regular “D” automatic. Once moving, I clicked the trans back into Manual mode. Adjust the gear selection to ensure you are in 4th. Let it settle out around 2,500 rpm (about 35mph) and click the button to start the data log. My tuner wanted 10 seconds at 2,500 rpm before WOT to 5,800rpm. I can tell you that in 4th gear the torque comes on nice and gradual, building up power at higher rpm. Vehicle is not squirrelly, and she takes the load politely on-road. Two pulls for each tuning revision was recommended. I ran the truck in 4A for my pulls to ensure no traction issues. Datalog files show up as a CSV (easy to read if you like) and are easily emailed off to your tuner for iteration of your tune file. Each datalog was approximately 35-50kb in size. I went through about a dozen versions of my tune before it was dialed in on 91 octane. The vehicle slowly got quicker and quicker doing the pulls. No hard street driving is recommended until the tune is more refined. I’ve been scanning the datalogs, but can’t really tell what is being tuned behind the scenes. As may be expected, I did see the fueling more on the rich side early in the tuning process with AFR down close to 10:1. Once mature, peak AFR was around 10.58 but also spent less time there. That sounds like the right fueling for peak torque to me. Peak boost levels were just over 22psi. While tuning the 91 octane map, I noticed that a good push of the right pedal reduced my expected range by 1-2 miles per push. A few heavy passes only put a handful of miles on the truck, but took off about 20 miles of range. She’s quick. I think I chirped all four tires on dry pavement today. She has never been this fast. If this is the low octane tune, I wonder what E85 is going to feel like. Sometimes the tuning process felt slow. Most of the time, I heard back within 2-4 hours with the next step, sometimes the next day around lunch. Overall, it took about 5 days to refine the first 91 octane tune. I had assumed I could do all tuning in one week or less, but that was too optimistic. The advantage of a day on a Dyno must be that your vehicle is finished tuning in one day. That, plus you would see actual wheel hp on your truck. No real explanation was given regarding what parameters were being tuned, but the truck ran much better than it ever has. Everything seems to work together much better now. I wasn’t seeking a particular hp figure anyway. Just all day long reliable gluttonous overwhelming power. I noticed that my idle was very low after reflashing the ECU a few times. Apparently when you reset the adaptive learning, the control system will need to re-learn idle speed and that can take some time. I saw idle as low as about 500 rpm when doing my reflash cycles. She’s a bit shaky at that low of an idle, smoothing out above 600rpm or so. Just be prepared for that. This is not a calibration issue, jut an ECU learning curve thing. [/QUOTE]
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GEN 2 (2017-2020) Ford F-150 Raptor Forums
Ford Raptor Engine Discussion and Performance Mods
Upgrading the TWINS
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